Beware of the Donkey Gangstaz!!!
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Nokandui We did not surf: Yesterday the swell was dying so we jetted over to burgerworld. After my session at Rifles the previous night, I didn’t even want to get out of the boat. Smythe said I had a bad attitude, but really i just didn’t want to surf a lame mushy crapball after having just surfed perfect barrels. After watching for about 45 minutes I did go catch 3 waves, but for those three waves I had to duck dive about 60-100 times. Burgerworld is just really disorganized and shifty and it is rare to find a good workable wall. Ray the manager of kandui says it gets good like one out of every twenty trips over there. I guess we had one of those 19 type of days. The shifty lineup did manage our insta crowd well and some of the boys got some of the better waves of their trip. Here are some pics.
The dude @ burgerworld After burgerworld we cruised home, then shot out to pistols which is this slab reef wave around the corner from rifles. The wave is imossible to shoot, breaks top to bottom from the takeoff and the water sucks out right beneath you. I had a couple of backdoor shacks off the takeoff, and honestly pink rashguarded on a few because it was draining out so quickly. Some of the waves would run down the reef after takoff and resembled a short version of lower trestles. It was 3 turns max then you had to pull out because the reef went dry on the inside. Everyone got some good ones, but there was some carnage… Tom put his knee through his firewire, and smythe wrecked the rail of his board and a few guys hit the reef. Great risk = Great Reward. Big swell is expected to start showing tonight and we are all excited to get the high performance waves of Rifles and Nokandui again. Hopefully we will return with pics/footage this time.
Monks just made a comment about the crowds in Indo so I figured it was a good time for this post. A trip to Indo will definitely find you a lot of really good waves and you will get uncrowded sessions. However, when you deploy 10 wave hungry donkeys, it changes the story a bit. So far we have really only had one swell and even though we have surfed every day, it has not been enough to quench the thirst of many of the donkeys. Yesterday I got lucky as all the donkeys got out of the water then the boat broke so they could not come out. It was definitely one of the best sessions of my trip. Only 1 – 3 other guys out and everyone was just trading waves. The best part was nobody was even remotely aggressive. Just a friendly session of trading waves. In contrast, below are some of the incidents caught on film. Mind you just because the person is in front of the other, does not mean the other person did not paddle around the other donkey…. (you will also notice the disease started to spread to non-donkeys. Ps. In case you are wondering the Viper has struck a couple of times, he was just lucky that nobody caught it on film. The swell that was supposed to arrive today turned out to be a hoax. What did show up left many places unridable and most of the places that were ridable had the wrong winds. So we ended up at Bang Bang again. Surprisingly there was a little something to ride. Here are a couple photos more photos from today. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
You want pics? Are you sure? Needless to say the last three days have been epic, and today for me has been particularly special. These pics are over the last 3 days, and every shot the rider completed the ride without fail…
For those left behind I grant this quick summary: We arrived in KL and took our 45 minute bus ride into the city, I was amazed how clean the freeways were, not a speck of trash not even a cigarette butt. It made me wonder if there is such a thing as too much freedom. I saw darth vader a few times, spent 1 night sweating it out and probably lost 5 pounds. The city is beautiful and the patronas towers are a spectacle to be seen. We are now in padang and waiting to head out to the resort. Everyone is in good spirits and the jet lag has seemed to subside for everyone. I think we need to surf soon.. gotta go pictures later. This is a reminder to call your credit card co. and your bank and let them know the countries you will be traveling in (Malaysia and Indonesia) and give them the dates of departure and return. They will put your cards in “travel” status so that your cards will NOT get declined if you use them in either of the two countries during the trip. In Tahiti, I did not call my cards in advance, I got there and my cards got declined. I had to go to a pay phone use a calling card, call the card companies and let them know I was traveling and to turn my shit back on. It was a pain in the butt and even after my call my cards did not work for another 24 hours. So… Call your cards tards |
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