Southern Hemi Action for local Donkeys!
Attention Marty, Jesse, John, Kozai and all others who have been missing in the lineup, there are some wavos on the horizon! The water is toasty so let’s see if you guys show up for some DP Fall Classic training sessions! Kozai, you were only a fraction away from taking the coveted Board of Excellence home with you! I want to see you laying down some hacks and getting some shacks!
As you may recall, I’ve been watching a storm forming off the North Island of New Zealand, moving on a less than ideal trajectory to the east. Models continue to show this one gaining momentum once south of the Cook Islands to throw us some moderate southern hemi for the 22nd. The 180h+ models then show a reform of this storm, and with a nice northward movement, throwing a good deal of swell toward SoCal when the fetch is only about 3700 nautical miles to our south — a fairly close distance for a southern hemi swell of this size. This one is projected to gain 40-foot seas, and pack a punch with 18- to 20-second periods. This though, is all based on long range models, so it is too early to get excited just yet. Running the numbers on this, the calculations show that we could easily see some overhead surf from this around the 24th. Still, it’s just too early to call that one today.
Shackleford Banks
Surfed Trestles Monday – was 2-3 feet but fun. Water was seriously 70 but felt like 80 in some spots. Getting my training on for the DP Fall Classic brah!